I really like this one, even though it has much more ease than I usually wear. I generated a relaxed fit with CustomFit, and since I’ve lost a bit of weight it appears looser than usual. But I think that goes very well with its intended cosy, slouchy-yet-shaped deep winter intent.
Lots of people over on Ravelry asked how to generate this with CustomFit so I’ll list the details here. It’s reasonably simple, although you do need to do a few calculations for the front.
Generate a relaxed fit, long-sleeved, narrow V-necked pullover. Work the back as written, making sure that the CO number is 4x+2. That way you’ll start with kk,pp,kk,pp,…,kk and you’ll get a smooth kkpp multiple once the pieces are sewn up and two k stitches consumed at each seam. Work the sleeves as detailed here. Remember to go through the pattern and change all the milestone stitch counts to reflect your additional stitches. Increase a few BOs at the top of the sleeve cap to remove the additional stitches.
The front requires a bit more thought. First, make sure you start with not just 4x + 2 stiches, but specifically 4x(odd number) + 2 stitches. This will ensure you get a pp column between the cable panels. If you start with a 4x(even number) + 2 stitch CO, then you’ll end up with a ppkkpp column in the middle. Add or subtract up to 4 stitches to get a 4xodd+2 stitch count, noting how many stitches you added or subtracted.
On the penultimate ribbing row (which will be a WS) add 10% to whatever had been your CustomFit suggested stitch count, in order to compensate for cable compression. (Remember, you are aiming to start the stockinette section with 110% of the initial CustomFit stitch count, not 110% of the number you actually cast on to get the correct stitch multiple.) Make two of these increases in the central ‘rope’ of each panel, and distribute the rest equally in the stockinette sections.
Eg: Say your CustomFit CO stitch count was 92. So 110% of that is approximately 102 stitches – this is the number of stitches you want at the start of the stockinette section. However, at your CO, your ribbing needs to be 4xodd+2. So you start with 94 (= 4×23 +2) and work 2×2 ribbing as long as you need to. When you start the stockinette section you want 102 stitches (which is ~ 110% of 92, not 94). So you need to increase 102 (intended stitch count) – 94 (actual stitch count) = 8 stitches evenly. Make two of these increases in what will become the central ‘rope’ of each cable panel (as explained in the sleeve post) and the remaining four stitches as two increases per side in what will become stockinette in the following row.
Then go through the pattern, changing milestone stitch counts as per your changed counts.
Work in pattern till the neck. Before starting the neck do the following calculations.
Number of stitches on each side of neck split = A
Number of stitches removed at each armscye = B
Number of shoulder stitches on back piece = C
Number of stitches in cable panel = D
Ie, number of decreases needed = E = A – (B+C+D) -1
(The last -1 is so that you end up with one more stitch on the back shoulder than the front shoulder (not including the collar). The extra stitch on the back is used for seaming the collar which continues to the nape).
Number of rows available for neck decreases = F (add row counts from CustomFit pattern, neck to armhole + armhole to shoulder shaping)
Distribute the total number of decreases (E) over the number of available rows (F) to get your neck decrease rate.
Finally the knitting! Work armscyes as directed. Make neck decreases in the stockinette section just outside the cable panels. Once shoulder shaping is complete, BO only the stockinette stitches and m1 on the collar, away from the neck edge. Work this extra stitch in stockinette – it will be used to seam the collar with the extra seam stitch on the back neck.
Continue working the cable panel till the centre back, throwing in a couple of short rows so that it curves at the back neckline. Join cable panels from both sides of the neck at the centre back, and seam in place. Finish the entire neckline with an applied i-cord, picking up 3 stitches every 4 rows on the front, and 2 stitches every 3 rows on the back.
Pattern: Dusseldorf Aran
Yarn: Dream in Color Classy; 100% merino; 229m = 113g; worsted weight; “Gold Experience”; 4.45 skeins
Needles: 3.5mm for ribbing, 5mm for rest, worked lever style