A post full of shaping details, you have been warned!
I was determined to dip the front neck of the Ondawa pullover, with short-rows, so I drew myself a diagram:
First, I measured my desired length from shoulder to hem – 19 inches. So the Back, a rectangle, would be 17 inches of cable and 2 inches of ribbing. Next, how low did I want my neck to dip in front? Around 4 inches. But 2 inches of the neckline is ribbing. Which means that the cables in the centre front had to stop at 6 inches below the full length of the Back, then the sides of the Front would have to be built up with short rows for 4 inches, followed by a final two inches of ribbing to bring everything to the level of the Back.
However, I was working this in the round, so needed to determine the placement of armhole openings as well. Since this is a drop shouldered style, I measured my bicep at where I thought the armhole would fall, and divided that in half to get the length of the armhole opening on each piece – 5 inches.
All the above was just to help me get the actual knitting sequence. Thus: work in pattern for 13 inches; start short-rowing across Back and sides of Front; after 1 inch of short-rows introduce armhole steek; continue short-rowing till Back is 4 inches higher than centre of Front; start working in the round again to get 2 inches of ribbing; finish steeks and neck.
I did start steeking the armholes, but abandoned the idea after a few rows because:
a) It was really tedious working long stretches of WS rows. It turned out much easier to work back-and-forth on the Back first, and then do the short-rows on the Front, till both were ready for the ribbing.
b) Because the end of round fell in the middle of my loooooong short-rows, I had to work one side of the Front’s cable crossing rows from the WS. Agonizing!
But once I started with the neck ribbing I reintroduced the steek because ptbl was painful!
First, I calculated row gauge by steaming out the bottom of the pullover to get an actual stretched reading (since I was lazy and didn’t swatch in the round). With the row gauge in hand I calculated the number of short rows to be worked. For 4 inches I needed 42 rows, or 21 turning points (since each turning point adds 2 rows). I did not have 21 purl columns on each side of the front, so used 3 sets of 7 points each. The picture below shows only one side for clarity, but imagine that on the other side too, each set leaving a central panel and some side columns unaffected.
Seamless neckline finishing next!