Giving Shape to Ondawa

A post full of shaping details, you have been warned!

Neck Shaping
I was determined to dip the front neck of the Ondawa pullover, with short-rows, so I drew myself a diagram:

 01 ondawa diagram

First, I measured my desired length from shoulder to hem – 19 inches. So the Back, a rectangle, would be 17 inches of cable and 2 inches of ribbing. Next, how low did I want my neck to dip in front? Around 4 inches. But 2 inches of the neckline is ribbing. Which means that the cables in the centre front had to stop at 6 inches below the full length of the Back, then the sides of the Front would have to be built up with short rows for 4 inches, followed by a final two inches of ribbing to bring everything to the level of the Back.

However, I was working this in the round, so needed to determine the placement of armhole openings as well. Since this is a drop shouldered style, I measured my bicep at where I thought the armhole would fall, and divided that in half to get the length of the armhole opening on each piece – 5 inches.

All the above was just to help me get the actual knitting sequence. Thus: work in pattern for 13 inches; start short-rowing across Back and sides of Front; after 1 inch of short-rows introduce armhole steek; continue short-rowing till Back is 4 inches higher than centre of Front; start working in the round again to get 2 inches of ribbing; finish steeks and neck.

I did start steeking the armholes, but abandoned the idea after a few rows because:
a) It was really tedious working long stretches of WS rows. It turned out much easier to work back-and-forth on the Back first, and then do the short-rows on the Front, till both were ready for the ribbing.
b) Because the end of round fell in the middle of my loooooong short-rows, I had to work one side of the Front’s cable crossing rows from the WS. Agonizing!
But once I started with the neck ribbing I reintroduced the steek because ptbl was painful!

Short-Rows
First, I calculated row gauge by steaming out the bottom of the pullover to get an actual stretched reading (since I was lazy and didn’t swatch in the round). With the row gauge in hand I calculated the number of short rows to be worked. For 4 inches I needed 42 rows, or 21 turning points (since each turning point adds 2 rows). I did not have 21 purl columns on each side of the front, so used 3 sets of 7 points each. The picture below shows only one side for clarity, but imagine that on the other side too, each set leaving a central panel and some side columns unaffected.

 02 ondawa short rows

Seamless neckline finishing next!

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2 thoughts on “Giving Shape to Ondawa

  1. I am knitting this in a reclaimed lovely red wool right now, so I’m very interested in how this works for you. I rather like boat/ballet necklines, so I don’t think I’ll dip the front, myself. I’m trying to see from the photos, though, if those short rows will have the effect of darts, giving a bit of bust shaping? Nicely done, love your projects and blog!

    1. Thanks! I chose to dip the neck since boat necks look rather unflattering on me. They don’t quite shape the bust since there’s no extra fabric added to the bust area. Your red Ondawa sounds lovely!

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