As planned, I bound off three stitches at the underarm of the Ondawa, cast on six stitches over the gap in the next row for the steek, and continued with the yoke. However, by that time I had already started doing short rows to shape the neck, so the steek was quite redundant. After a few rows I abandoned the steek and started working back and forth. I couldn’t work in the round while short rowing anyway, and doing the front and backs separately at least divided the WS rows into shorter stretches.
Meanwhile, the Robson Trench reached …
Stage III: Sewing
To remind you where we are, here’s the fabric cutting diagram.
The large pieces with seam binding and underlining look like these, from left to right:
a) Simple, with both edges bound and horizontal edges stay stitched
b) Mixed, with one edge bound and the other stay stitched.
c) Complex, with at least one edge is partially bound and the other partially stay stitched.
In all the above, the bound edge is always finished first, and then the remaining edges (horizontal or vertical) are stay stitched.
With that out of the way, I could finally transfer notches. Not, obviously, by notching my beautifully bound edges, but with thread (yes, I’m adding that to the list of how I over-complicated this project).
The seaming for the project goes fastest if you do all similar pieces together. It also sidesteps thread changing frenzy. I did all the bits and bobs first, top stitching and all. Then the large seams: pockets and welts to corresponding pieces, back to back and sleeve top to sleeve bottom. After seaming together, the seams are pressed open and top stitched twice from the right side (except pockets, see below). If any internal curved seam allowance was unbound…
… I trimmed it, bound it with bias tape, and only then top stitched it.
Because my seam allowances are opened up, I did the pocket in a slightly different sequence:
a) Stitch Pockets to corresponding Front and Side pieces, leaving 5/8 inch only unsewn at top and bottom edges. Press each seam allowances towards its corresponding Pocket (very important step!).
b) Move both Pockets and their seam allowances towards the Front, and top stitch the entire Side piece, catching only its own seam allowance.
c) Spread apart Pockets and their seam allowances, and top stitch just the Front piece, only between the notches (ie, only along the Welt).
d) Hold Pockets together and stitch around the edges. This will be possible since the previous steps have left the top and bottom of the Pockets unsewn and uncaught by top stitching. While stitching this curved line, keep the Pocket seam allowances pressed towards the Pockets, sewing through several layers of fabric at the beginning and end of this seam.
e) Finish the curved seam just sewn with bias binding.
f) Complete top stitching on Front princess seam, through all layers, from underarm to top of Welt, then, separately, bottom of Welt to hem.
g) Finish Welts and Pockets as in the pattern.
I did almost everything according to pattern, except the shoulder seams which were joined wrong sides together, to keep the inside of the garment clean.
Whew, ok, some more sewing and finishing next. But first I have to devote some time to my Ondawa.