Roses and Welts

I made another skirt, a much better fitting one than the last two. It’s a basic a-line skirt from Sew U, but I made tons of changes. First, I left out the front darts to accommodate my tummy.  Then, I reduced the length substantially, and also lopped off about an inch from the top. I still marvel at the amount of ease built into the Sew U patterns – 4 inches of width removed from the bottom, and the skirt is still a-line. Finally, I added a hook and eye closure.

Oh but that’s not all! The skirt also has:

A lining: this rather bilious green fabric was what I had lying around. I used it since it’s going to be invisible anyway, and I love the heavy swishy drape and structure that a lining gives to garments. It feels like a Solid, Well Made Thing.

Piped Welt Pockets: Tutorial from here. They were much easier than expected. My only problem was: the zip foot, which came with my Brother LS2125. It has a very broad, wide, ‘heel’, which prevents the stitching line from snugging up to the piping. Well, that’s an understatement. It is inhumanly determined to not stitch next to the piping, and with grim persistence pushes the piping away no matter what you try (why yes, I did have to spend a lot of time re-doing the piping). So the curves of the pocket opening aren’t as perfect as they could be. While I’m all for making do with what one has — and not spending on extra gadgets — I think I really do need a foot that forms a stitching line along its edge. See, other people agree with me!

Three rows of top stitching, to prevent the lining from riding up.

Matched with similar, subtle, top stitching at the hem.

And now, my position on a couple of controversies:

Quilting cotton: Yes, this is quilting weight cotton. I would never make a dress or shirt out of it, but its stiffness is good for an a-line skirt. The lining helps make it comfortable too.

Lining hem: ok, this is a controversy only in my own mind. Should the lining hem be turned out (between the lining and the main fabric) or in (next to the body)? I’ve seen RTW examples of both styles. My reasoning is, that while all construction details (darts, seams) should fall between the lining and the main fabric (so that there is a smooth, neat surface if the garment is turned inside out) the hem is the only part of the lining most likely to be seen when worn. Therefore, it makes sense to turn it inwards (towards the body) so that it looks clean if the main fabric rides up while worn.

Meanwhile, Nanook still awaits pocket linings. But I did so much successful sewing this weekend, I didn’t have time to knit.


2 thoughts on “Roses and Welts

  1. I love A line skirts. And this one is amazing!! You did a great job on it! I especially love pockets and I think the piping looks neat-o!!

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