Skirting Issues

(Groan… that was terrible!!)

The promised skirt post mortem!

Pattern: Skirt from Sew U: The Built by Wendy Guide to Making your own Wardrobe

With my first skirt, far from enjoying beginner’s luck, I made every possible mistake:

  • Cut two front sides. I’m only able to wear it despite that because it’s cut on the bias.
  • Put the lining together incorrectly, with its darts visible on the inside.
  • Attached zip at the right hand side instead of the left.
  • I’m pretty sure I inadvertently increased the seam allowance, making it gangrene-inducingly tight at the waist unless I wear it very high.
  • Used a cheap craft shop zip which doesn’t lock on pressing down the tab. Oops!!
  • Also, I didn’t see a length reduction line on the pattern, so I made up my own.
  • Here’s one of those duh things you only realise later: The skirt and lining are made exactly the same, with the wrong sides of both ending up between the right sides. Meaning, no construction shows on the public side or lies against your body. The only exception is the hem of the lining, which should be folded in the same direction as the main fabric. That is, if you flip the main fabric up, you should see the smooth, NOT folded, side of the lining’s hem. At least, I think so, based on the retail skirts I’ve bought.

Seeing, however, that every bloggy review praised this skirt and said it miraculously fit and fell perfectly no matter what the size and shape of the wearer, I tried it again. What do you know, they were right:

This time I was much more careful and actually cut a front piece and two back pieces.

Mods:

  • Took out the front darts since I have a bit of a tummy.
  • Increased waist circumference by taking out about 3/4” more from the top of the skirt.
  • Moved opening to side. Lesson: the opening needs to be on opposite sides of the skirt and lining.
  • Fully lined instead of faced.
  • Inserted a tab of fabric into the opening for hook and eye closure.
  • Added a facing to the top. Long rectangle, pleated at top edge to account for narrower circumference at waist. It also extends into a sash, so I figured out a way to line the dangling ends.

Much better! Will I dare to make a shirt next?

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